Friday, 15 June 2012

All About Asparagus!


Asparagus-  asparagus officinalis  is an perennial plant in the lily family. 
It is a perennial crop that grows from crowns (like bulbs) and takes a minimum of two years to develop until you can pick it, but then it comes back every spring.     In Alberta asparagus season is anywhere from mid to late May to end of June.   The fresh spears get picked as often as twice daily and then when the days get hotter (end June) are left to turn to ferny foliage that recharges the crowns preparing for winter and then shoots the next spring.  
When you choose asparagus from the store, the closer to home it is, the fresher and better it will be.  Choose bunches with plump tips and ends that aren’t dried out.    White asparagus is the same plant- but it is grown under deep layers of mulch to keep it from developing the green from chlorophyll in the sunlight.   Note that it is perfectly acceptable to eat asparagus with your fingers and I think it tastes better eaten this way.   There is nothing that tastes better than fresh asparagus right from the field.  Our farmer,  Lorne Bunney,  grows his asparagus out near Brooks, picks on Friday and you can eat it Saturday for supper.  
The joy and the heartbreak of asparagus is that it is very, very seasonal.   So eat asparagus until you can’t eat any more and then wait until next season.   Because the joy of food right from the ground in the place where you live is the best!   
To store: stand the bundle of asparagus in 1″ of water in a jar in the fridge and cover loosely with a plastic bag.  Alberta asparagus will keep in the fridge for at least one week
Grill whole on the barbeque,  or spear with skewers and grill, or boil in 1 inch of salted water, just until they turn bright green.   Or cut in 1 inch pieces with a bit of water and microwave for 2 minutes, run under cold water to chill and then add to salad. 

My friend and colleague dee Hobsbawn-Smith has an awesome new book out about small farms, farmers and food production in Alberta called Foodshed- An Edible Alberta Alphabet.   This is her asparagus recipe that would be perfect for an elegant spring dinner. 

Asparagus Roll
This spring dish bursts with classic Italian flavours.
1/2 tsp (2 mL) grapefruit zest
2 tbsp (25 mL) minced onion
2 tsp (10 mL) grated ginger root
1 tsp (5 mL) olive oil or cold-pressed organic canola oil
kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste
2 chicken thighs, boneless, skin on or ½ pork tenderloin
1 to 2 tbsp (15 to 25 mL) herb mustard
 1/2 tsp (2 mL) minced fresh rosemary
2 tsp (10 mL) minced fresh parsley
1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped capers
6 spears asparagus, halved
1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped oil-cured olives (optional)
1 to 2 tbsp (15 to 25 mL) olive oil or cold-pressed organic canola oil

Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C). Saute onion and ginger in oil until tender, about 5 minutes.  Season with salt and pepper. Lay chicken skin-side-down (or pork) on counter.  Spread with mustard, herbs, capers, zest, cooked onions, asparagus and olives. Roll the meat around the filling, season, and transfer to a parchment-lined tray, seam side down. Drizzle with oil and roast uncovered for 20 to 25 minutes, until juices run clear. Serve hot.
Serves 2

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